tig welders

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Re: tig welders

Postby Flourchild » Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:32 am

I have a simple 110v Lincoln mig and have built everything from trailers to the whole front end of my drag truck mine actually feeds the aluminum wire through the lead with no need for a spool gun makes it alot easier and you have more control and can get more production from it although there is nothing quite like the tigs but for speed and cost the I like the migs. Here is a link to Lincoln to check out whats new and available to the consumer.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/
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Re: tig welders

Postby russau » Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:57 am

Tig welders seem tobe like metal detectors in that the thinner aluminum you want to weld the more costly it is! and the cheaper models arent cheap at all! that why i went to a used model. several years ago i was watching(drooling) over on ebay at some Miller syncrowave 200 TIG welders. complet minus the bottel of gas. the cost with free shipping was buy now at $1200. and not haveing the money i had to pass. it soon went back up to $1800/$1900 i wish i had the $$$$ then because my slightly used welder was more than that but mine came with everything plus a lot of extras that are not included in this package from Miller.but im happy with it! but now im broke again, but also in the position to make some good money if i ever get up beating the bushs for "work". that word scares me!
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Re: tig welders

Postby poprivit2 » Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:20 am

Bill....
bought/stole my miller syncrowave from a friend who was using it in a awning buisness that didn't make it.
I tried to run it way out at my barn but some how the voltage/amperage was not enough and I fried the circut board. So moved it to the grauge where the power was ok and had the board rebuilt $250 !! Now all ok.
In price from friend was !!!! $1200!!!! but he was real sad HA! I think the entire rig new was $3400 and was 2 yrs old. Does not have varible amp control at torch, just momantary thumb switch. I was going to get the varible switch but got used to clicking on and off.
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Re: tig welders

Postby Paratrooper » Sun Jan 31, 2010 11:21 am

Sometimes at gun shows and other venues I have seen a system that can weld alum BUT it acts like a gas weld . It has a stick and when you watch the guy he really is welding alum . Now having taken welding classes at the local JC I know the object of a good weld is to get a "homogenious" weld . That is to get both pieces of metal being joined as well as the medium (stick or rod) to merge as one piece at the molecular level . If you want to research that method you might get what you want for less than you're willing to pay . Good luck .
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Re: tig welders

Postby bill-costa rica » Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:51 pm

do you mean this stuff

http://aluminumrepair.com/land2/index.h ... nAodLjw_0Q

http://www.durafix.com/

it is pretty cool, but i am not for sure about it.

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Re: tig welders

Postby micropedes1 » Sun Jan 31, 2010 1:26 pm

Bill, no one has asked: what is your end use? That is the most important item. Also what voltage, current, and Frequency do you have available?

I have a Synchrowave like Pop, but I bought mine at auction knowing it had a bad board f(or just a few dollars). Replaced board and still have less than $400 in it. It works but is not my favorite machine. I have an older Hobart 300 amp machine that has a variable pulse control that I can dial down to where I can actually weld pieces of the wife's aluminum foil together. Or I can dial it up to weld the 1/2" bottom of an airboat.

Oh, BTW. The self darkening hood might need an extra degree of shade out front as the TIG puts out a brighter source of UV than MIG. Plus, the self darkening ones do not like working under fluorescent lights.
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Re: tig welders

Postby bill-costa rica » Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:53 pm

glen
i am working in shaded sun light outside. i plan on a boat that is twenty feet long and stainless rigging and a bit of mild steel. i learned to tig weld on a big linde, cannot afford that machine , but i don't want a pos. i have 110-120 and 240 single phase here. nothing higher with out buying a transformer at $ 5000. the power is very dirty. the import tax is a killer.
i wish to find a used machine.... i will keep looking.

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Re: tig welders

Postby CalGoldDredger » Sun Jan 31, 2010 6:31 pm

Bill
Funny you mentioned preheating.
Does any of you know if preheating 1/8" wall steel square tubing will have a worth while effect on the penetration of the weld using flux core ????

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Re: tig welders

Postby Paratrooper » Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:56 pm

bill-costa rica wrote:do you mean this stuff

http://aluminumrepair.com/land2/index.h ... nAodLjw_0Q

http://www.durafix.com/

it is pretty cool, but i am not for sure about it.

bill-cr


There is a test for this kind of stuff . I had a friend that used to sell welding rod . He was a realist and it showed . Sales approach was short and simple . He carried a small visor so he could weld anywhere . He would take 2 small scrap pieces from the customers junk pile so there was no doubt as to the type of metal or it's "pedigree" . He would weld the 2 pieces together (we're talking pieces of about 4" by 6" . When he finished one piece was put in a big vise with the other piece sticking up. Then he (6' 2" about 240 lbs.) would beat the crapola out of the top piece with a sledge hammer trying to break the weld which was horizontal to the vice jaws . He sold a LOT of rod . You might ask for a small sample from Durafix and explain your situation . In a perfect world it will suit your needs and you will become a local distributor . You save money AND make money . Good luck .
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Re: tig welders

Postby russau » Mon Feb 01, 2010 6:41 am

[quote="CalGoldDredger"]Bill
Funny you mentioned preheating.
Does any of you know if preheating 1/8" wall steel square tubing will have a worth while effect on the penetration of the weld using flux core ????

no John, i dont see any benefit in preheating 1/8 inch steel tubing for better weld penetration! id bevel the edges of the tube at 45 degrees,but them together and weld it. ususally,when welding thicker metal (for best weld penetration) you bevel both edges at 45 degrees and space the metal apart the thickness of your weld rod. then tack it to keep its distance. but in your Mig welding this tube i wouldnt bother doing that because you should get 100% penetration just beveling the edges.and with this frame for the winch, you want 100% penetration. and letthe welds air cool! dont wet them down to cool them,that would make the weld brittle! and id clamp the frame work down to keep from any warping or going out of square.
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